Portugal Fashion Porto: The Latest Fashion Trends For Spring/Summer 2020 ♦ The 45th edition of Portugal Fashion said goodbye to Porto on Saturday with the stamp of diversity. Portugal Fashion closed Saturday night with a full house, with warnings from Susana Bettencourt about suicide rates and the existence of bullying among young people. Also the duo Marques Almeida warned that the fashion world needs to be more inclusive. In an event that also served as a “scream” of appeal to society and a call for attention to the environment, 44,000 people passed through Alfândega do Porto over the four days. Secrets From Portugal brings you the best trends, highlights and the best moments, until March 2021, enjoy the spring-summer trends presented at the 45the edition of the Portugal Fashion.
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The last day of the 45th edition of Portugal Fashion was marked by the shows of two doubles: Marques’Almeida, who chose Casa de Serralves to present his proposals for the next hot season, and Manuel Alves and José Manuel Gonçalves, whose presentation took place at Alfêndega in Porto. Diogo Miranda wowed with its romance by the Douro River and the master Miguel Vieira opened wings for men’s tailoring.
THE BEST PORTUGAL FASHION @ PORTO MOMENTS
The parade of the duo Marques’Almeida was promised for the Casa de Serralves, where this Friday inaugurated the exhibition “Paula Rego. The scream of the imagination. But time changed their turns, in the best sense. The presentation took place in the garden, next to the building. The symmetry of the landscape formed the perfect morning scenery. The collection, initially presented in London, brought together two references that others would find inconsumable. Others, but not Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida. The glamour of the golden years in Hollywood has been subjected to a considerable dose of rebellion.
Stop the clock – Susana Bettencourt’s message in March this year promised something more. A continuation, according to the creator herself, who made a point of warning that the October (Saturday) parade is the realization of a new strategy. No sooner said than done. It’s time to change was the second page of a new chapter written by the designer, a collection without a season, or rather, with the four seasons. From now on, it will be so – the Susana Bettencourt brand will hold an annual show, interspersed with a performance teaser presentation.
Production efficiency, commercial boldness, and a message that change, wherever it may be, is a pressing need. Also within her own collection, Susana made choices. Denim was a new challenge, the mesh pieces emerged as (thinner) alternatives to knits that undoubtedly remain the flagship of the designer work.
Football and music brought Maria Gambina to present the collection of the next hot season to Porto Customs. “Gambina FC” was referenced as “Novos Baianos Futebol Clube”, a documentary made by Solano Ribeiro, in 1973. Both bases were duly explored by the creator’s graphic language – pastel colours, pleats, overlays, personal versions of the classic club jerseys, macramé pieces and, of course, the very emblems of the designer who, just a year ago, returned to the Portuguese catwalks after having been away for six years.
Diogo Miranda starred in the perfect postcard on the third day of Portugal Fashion! Coincidentally, the designer’s inspiration for the collection was also cinematic. The figure of Tilda Swinton, an eternally slender, classic and sophisticated silhouette in the movie “I Am Love”, was the theme of a parade that featured several shades of blue, beige, shy pink, greens, yellow and orange. intense, the latter especially refreshing in what is the usual designer palette. It is good to remember that last season, the reference had been to Catherine Deneuve in the movie “Indochina”.
Tânia Nicole opened the third and second to last day of parades at Porto. The “Boruca” collection was a surprise. The designer emerged focused on a casual wardrobe, based on cleaner and more versatile design pieces, dropping the streetwear record that characterizes her from day one. The young designer has summoned a mix of materials, tailoring elements and of course the colour. An unlikely harmony of orange, red and blue interspersed with beige, white, black and faint green. Here, especially in the most vibrant tones, comes the inspiration of the collection, a lost tribe in Costa Rica whose folklore includes masks and lush fabrics. As for materials, the highlight goes to the use of fabrics that the designer had in the studio.
Miguel Vieira also unpacked his bags after, for the first time, performing on the official calendar of Milan Fashion Week last June. To a master, little is taught. It remains for you to shape the creations and the way you present them to the inspirations and references of the moment. In a parade marked by male tailoring, where women were in the minority, the designer presented a summer sublimated by mint green, oil and emerald, pink, beige, blue and Bordeaux and bold patterns that continue to redefine Miguel Vieira’s man. The ending was triumphant. The dummies returned to the catwalk, which was a squad, guided by three international dummies: Maria Miguel, Isilda Moreira and Alécia Morais.
The duo Alves / Gonçalves closed with pomp and boldness this edition of Portugal Fashion. The following recipe is original and fills the measurements as if the parade were a procession of objects of immediate desire. Varnished finishes, flaps, shine, tailoring and the art of fine pleating – a powerful woman comes with both a well-defined waist and a chaotic dress that seems to have a life of its own. After the show was the question: how to get back to casual wear after this fetish fashion show?
Thus ended the 45th edition of Portugal Fashion, in Porto. During the last four days, around 30 parades of Portuguese and international creators were held. Through Porto Customs, around 180 mannequins passed. Behind the scenes, dozens worked – anything like 40 tackers, plus hair and makeup teams, each with about 30 elements. The event returns in March next year, time to anticipate the fall-winter 2020/21 trends.